Champagne for citrus lovers.

Wine marketers downplay this: all non-vintage "house" Champagne (vrai vin de Champagne, not "Champagne" as a catchall for sparkling wine) made in the traditional méthode champenoise that is imported to the US is good. Some, of course, is better than others, and some houses' wines are certainly overpriced (even for Champagne), but all of it is good.

What is left for the consumer, then, is to find a style suited to his taste, or to the food being served. Some Champagnes have yeasty flavors akin to bread or Trappist ale, whereas others are fruit-forward, with many, of course, in between. A mineral note, akin to Chablis, can be detected in some but not in others. Among the fruit-forward Champagnes there is quite a bit of variation, with Duval-Leroy tasting distinctly of apple or quince and others more evocative of citrus or table grape.

Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut is one of the most fruit-forward and fresh-tasting Champagnes on the market. A very fine mousse that seems to go on forever puts forth a bouquet smelling distinctly of lime or tangerine zest. Very light in the mouth, this Champagne is bursting with lemon or lime citrus flavor, with a butter-cookie undertone rounding things out, and a very clean aftertaste.

Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut has the acidity to match its zesty aromas and citrus flavors. While a good choice for toasting--this is a Champagne that people who say they don't like Champagne say they like--it almost asks for hors d'ouevres by itself. Oysters Bienville, Creole "barbecue" shrimp, and smoked salmon all come to mind as good pairings, all light-tasting with fat to match the wine's acid.

Among NV "house" Champagnes, Perrier-Jouet is relatively low priced--a bottle could be had last December for $28--but Californian, New Mexican, or Australian sparklers are still a better value.