2006 Ford Mustang

Background:

See December 2009 updates preceded by >2009:

I have owned a VW, Nissan and two Mustang GT convertibles (1992 and 2006). Lest you assumed I am biased on Fords, note that I bought my Nissan while a Ford employee (despite the employee discount). The Mustangs were bought when I was no longer employed with Ford.

The 1992 GT convertible had 190K miles, never left stranded and had the ORIGINAL clutch at 190K (although worn out at time of sale).

I rented a 2005 V6 convertible automatic from Hertz; on paper, it is as fast as my old 1992, but it didn't feel like it. The V6 torque curve is nothing like my 1992's V8. The car has a tighter turning circle (by about 4 feet) and handled far better than my 1992.

Due to that experience, I ordered a 2006 Mustang GT convertible (arrived Jan 2006) as the selection of convertibles/colors on dealer lots was extremely limited. I paid close to list price with all options except the automatic and the Shaker 1000 radio.

Here are my initial observations compared to my old 1992 model:

1. Far more rigid and quiet
2. Interior quality and ergonomics highly improved
3. More HP (300HP vs. 205HP)
4. More weight (~3700 lbs vs. ~3400 lbs)
5. More neutral handling (53/47 vs 57/43 weight distribution)
6. Faster acceleration (I timed 5.5 secs 0-60 personally vs. 6.5 for the 1992)
7. Observed gas mileage is similar (16 MPG city, 24 highway) (EPA is 17/25) despite nearly 100HP and 300 lbs differences
8. Top mechanism is higher quality with liner, but operates a bit slower than 1992 model
9. Tremec 3650 5 speed manual makes noticeable gear 'clanking' sound at times - supposedly normal according to my knowledgeable coworker.
10. Rear seat space bigger than 1992 model, but still tight for adults
11. Engine compartment fairly easy to work on (I'm a shade tree mechanic)
12. The car is longer (about 7 inches) and I had to move stuff in garage to make it fit

Comparison to other cars.

The 2006 Mustang GT is rated at EPA 17/25 MPG. Another reviewer claimed his Mazda RX8 got 26 MPG vs. the Mustang GT at 16 MPG. The Mazda RX8 is rated EPA 18/24 MPG (vs 17/25 for Mustang) - seems unusual for similar ratings to be so far off in real world. Also, the Mazda RX8 puts out 232HP vs. 300HP so it's possible the RX8 gets more mileage because of the lower HP rating.

Another viewer commented the Mustang didn't seem 'tough'. Unclear if it was the reliability or the performance he meant. However, a V6 automatic convertible is the SLOWEST Mustang model out there - if tough is what you want, you'll have to up the ante to the V8 GT.

There is no direct American equivalent (yes, the Pontiac GTO has IRS and V8 400HP, but it has little personality of the 60's GTO and styled like an import car (Australian Holden)).

Wait until the 2008 Challenger/2009 Camaro come out if you want more choices.

>2009:  Challenger and Camaro are out, but no convertible yet.  500 and 300 lbs respectively heavier than Mustang, but have independent suspensions.  Curiously, car magazines say they don't handle as well as the 2010 Mustang - go figure.

My opinion:

1. A Mustang appeals to many people; if you want style and care less about speed, the V6 should be fine. If you want the full 'Mustang' experience, get the V8 GT.

2. If you want practicality, don't buy a Mustang. Mustangs are fun, not practical.

3. If you care about gas mileage, don't buy a V8 car; there are plenty of other cars that get better gas mileage. Expecting great gas mileage from a 300HP V8 is unrealistic.

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One year later, the car has 10K miles on it. Here are the latest observations.

>2009: 4 years later - the car has 45K miles on it

A. Windows will randomly rattle when top is up; minor annoyance that dealership has yet to fix correctly.

>2009: window rattles when COLD (at least, California cold).  In summer, it seems to go away. Obviously a heat expansion issue.  Never resolved.

B. In the last month, a cold-start issue - it will sputter and stall after 10 secs - very random and dealership says nothing shows on diagnostics.

>2009:  issue disappeared. Root cause never found.

C. Since day one, I have an 18" wheel/tire assembly that loses air faster than the others. Dealership and Tire Works can not find any leak - dunked in water tank, etc.

>2009:  back in 2008, Wheelworks tire determined it was debris on the inside of rim - gooey black stuff - that causes EVER so slow leak. Ford dealer was horrible - refused to replace wheel/tire because unable to duplicate leak. Service department was rude, obnoxious. Never went back to that dealer. Later found out they fired all but one of the people in Service (ironically, the one remaining was the rude, obnoxious one).

>2009: New Ford Dealer explained they are on commission; if the defect can't be shown to Ford Corporate, they are not reimbursed money on the repair.  Fair enough to the dealership, but Ford clearly has a customer satifaction issue with ME.  Thanks to Wheelworks for spotting the issue.

D. More than a few tricked out import cars like to challenge a Mustang GT; even more so when I put the 6 point rollbar and the top is down. Be prepared for the attention it attracts.

>2009:  If you don't like attention, don't get a convertible - nearly 4 years later,  the street racers still buzz around me.

>2009:  Warranty expired January 2009.  Around August 2009, the hydraulic top cylinder (driver side) burst and spewed hydraulic fluid on $300 pre-tensioner front seat belt.  Oil on floor seeped to REAR  (driver side) seat belt ($127 non-pre-tensioner belt).  Oil on seat belts ruin the structural integrity and must be replaced. Cylinder is $140 from Ford - parts alone were over $600 - figure on $1200+ if you pay someone to fix (I did it myself).  Very disappointing reliability - my 14 year old 1992 Mustang NEVER had a hydraulic top failure.  This 2006 top failed barely at 4 year mark (and outside warranty).

I accept 'A' as part of 'convertible ownership' as they simply are not as tight as coupes. Anyone who tells you their convertible (cloth, not hardtop) is as tight as a coupe is ignorant. My car comes close as I installed a 6 point rollbar, but it will never be the same as a coupe.

The 'B' cold start issue is the biggest concern; 2 years left on the warranty, but hope it isn't anything serious. This is my biggest disappointment so far. Otherwise, the engine pulls strong.

The 'C' tire issue is getting really irritating. I will bring it in and ask that the tire be replaced (my suspicion is the tire leaks UNDER weight of the car; that is why they don't see it when the tire/wheel is removed and put in a tank - no car squeezing the sidewall).

The 'D' extra attention can be an issue. My 1992 always attracted the 'racer' crowd (with its 6 point roll bar as well), and the 2006 is no different. I don't race; the rollbar is for driving safety; but the Mitsubishi Evolution, Subaru WRX crowd take great interest at the stoplights.
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The Mustang is a retro-styled and engineered car - if you liked the 60's pony car concept, but updated for the new century, there really is no equivalent today.

If you like import car precision, reliability, practicality, the Mustang will likely not appeal to you.

I recommend people rent a car if possible before buying it. Even though I had an older Mustang, only by renting the new car did I get a better understanding whether I wanted another Mustang. A test drive is OK, but a full day is clearly better.

>2009:  I still recommend the car (used market) as the value is still there.  If you do buy a used  convertible, consider wrapping the top cylinder in absorbent sponge as I did.  This is preventative to stop a leaking cylinder from damaging the expensive pre-tensioner belt.  While it may have been remote incident, for $600/$1200 repair, cheap insurance to prevent it.